Istanbul

I arrived in Istanbul last week, by bus from Thessaloniki. Unfortunately I still can't cycle due to the trapped nerve, but it has given me a chance to spend a few days in Istanbul. It has rained cats and dogs, but the sun came out on saturday and has remained since.

Here are a some photos - for the full album click here

Thessaloniki, Greece

I've been in Thessaloniki in Greece since Saturday. It seems I have a trapped nerve in my nether regions, and is getting worse before it gets better. I went to see a doctor here, who luckily spoke very good English. It is strange though, as I'm used to the saddle and have used it happily for two years now.

I'm heading to Istanbul this evening on a bus, as I need to get there to sort out my Iranian visa. It's all a bit frustrating, but there's little I can do about it - and the treatment for trapped nerves is patience. I'll keep you updated.

Greece

I took the boat across from Italy to Igoumenitsa in Greece. On board there was a large group of young Greeks who had been across to Italy to see Athens' 4th best water polo team (you've heard of them, surely?) play in the European final. They weren't able to get into the stadium, so they came back on the boat and had a party on the boat, dancing and singing to a fusion of traditional Greek music and trance.

I don't care what the rating agencies say - Greece gets a triple A from me. They are the friendliest, warmest people I've met so far, both on the boat and here in Inoumenia. They see me sitting on my own so instinctively invite me over.

These are oranges the size of a grapefruit.

I cycled from the port at Igoumenitsa to Inonia, and it was 100km of mountain climbing and descending. Truly wonderful cycling terrain. I seem to have picked up a non-fatal cycling injury from yesterday. There is a soreness and pain on the bones of my undercarriage/throne of prince albert/gucci - it's not saddle sore, however - so I'm taking it easy today before pressing on to Thessaloniki.

I've never been to Greece before, but I'm very glad to have done so. It's a mix of both bristling chaos and laid-back charm, and you get the sense that despite the economic collapse the Greeks aren't prepared to wallow in the situation the government and the banks have put them in. That said, I have yet to see either Athens or the second city, Thessaloniki, where the effects of high youth unemployment would be more evident.

Here's a few more photos from yesterday's road.

High up in the hills you come across tiny brick shacks which are Greek Orthodox dedications to the Virgin Mary. You find inside a small altar, bouquets of plastic flowers, and small parafin burners.

Day 10 Venice

I made it to Venice yesterday afternoon. I'm getting a boat to Greece early in the morning, as I need to cycle across from Igoumenitsa to Istanbul to collect my Iranian Visa, so the route and distance has changed somewhat.

I haven't had much of a chance to update this blog. It's a habit thing as much as any other excuse, so I'll try and wake a bit earlier, cycle a bit faster, and write stuff down as I go, but I've got permanent numbness in my right hand (not convinced about the 'butterfly' handlebars) so the writing is a bit difficult. Also starting to feel the cramps in the legs, so I am studying carefully what I'm eating.

Next update should be when I'm in Greece...

Col de Grand St Bernard

Home to the big St Bernard's, this area is where the alps properly begin. It's a climb I did last year and the year before, so I have both a loathing and affection for this gruelling 27km winding climb upto the summit at 2400 metres.

Here's a few pictures from the way up

Up above the tunnel at 18km, the Col was closed (opens 1st June). As there hadn't been much snow over the winter, I chanced an ascent of the last 400 metres - but after less than 150 the road ran out, completely covered in snow.

I went back down to the tunnel (bicycles aren't allowed through as it's basically a motorway) and spoke to the Italian police at the toll, and got a lift in a pickup through the 7 or so kilometres of the tunnel. Then you find yourself in Italy, where there's a very quick descent down to Aosta